How To Use Azelaic Acid For Best Results

It’s my most loved acid. Its almost always on my recommended ingredients list and yet its still not as widely known as it should be (although I’m working on that!!!)

 

However I STILL get tons of questions about how best to use it. So I thought I’d go back to basics with Azelaic Acid and show you how it’s done.


What Can You Use Azelaic Acid for? 

On a side note I’ve used it myself for more than a decade. And I can attest to its many benefits through it;s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.


It reduces redness, unclogs pores and prevents blemishes. And it inhibits tyrosinse  thus helping treat pigmentation, including melasma. And it’s antixoidant power means its also useful for ageing prevention


It even treats perioral dermatitis (POD), plus its safe in pregnancy and lactation. So the bigger question is why AREN’T you using it!!!


I’m going to be using Flawless Brightly Serum with 10% Azelaic Acid to show you how I incorporate it into my daily routine. 

Can You Use Azelaic Acid Every Day?

So you have scope to use Azelaic Acid up to twice a day and its fine to be used daily. In fact, like most great actives, its best results are achieved through daily use. If you have sensitive skin or a condition like rosacea or POD, start using it on alternate days initially.


How Do You Apply Azelaic Acid?

Dose it. You want to be consistent. So I’ll guide patients to use a half fingertip or a full fingertip.  


Then you want to evenly distribute it all over the skin. I rarely advocate anything other than full face usage as it offers so many skin benefits - the exceptions are in teens with localised t-zone congestion and blemishes.And if you suffer from maskne, then localised issues might me you confine it to use in the U of the face. But on the whole, you want field change, where the whole complexion improves, not just the problem areas. 


So here I’ve used  the 13 dot technique. For my purposes, I want skin conditioning, which means I deliver a little everywhere and don’t overdo it in any one spot. 

13 dot technique

Extra care should be taken at these sites:

Near eye area - I stop at the orbital bone.

Near lips - like retinoids, this can be drying.

Neck - whilst it may be useful, take care and use it in smaller amounts, less often initially.


Massage it in thoroughly to optimise penetration and build up the dose with time. Allow it  to fully absorb and then follow up with your next steps. You can then layer moisturiser and sunscreen to complete your morning routine.  


I recommend using it twice a day in rosacea, POD and during pregnancy, when treating melasma, acne and rosacea. 


Final Thoughts

Hopefully you’re now feeling excited to start incorporating this amazing skincare ingredient into your skincare routine and any questions about how to use it have been answered. I think it really has something to offer everyone!

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