Dark under-eye circles are one of the most common skincare concerns people face. Are you stuck with them forever? Absolutely not. In this guide, I’ll show you how to identify the type of dark circles you have and the best skincare strategies to minimise them. Whether you’re in your 20s or navigating post-menopause, you’ll find actionable tips to tackle this frustrating beauty issue.
What Causes Dark Circles Under the Eyes?
Dark circles that are due to issues in the skin (rather than deeper structures) generally fall into two categories:
- Blood vessel-related dark circles
- Melanin-related dark circles
Both types become more visible as we age due to thinning skin. The skin around the eyes is the thinnest on the body—just 1 millimetre thick in some areas—making it more prone to showing what’s underneath. Think of it like wearing a black bra under a white shirt: if the material (or skin) is thin, what’s beneath becomes more noticeable.
Melanin-Related Dark Circles: How to Identify and Treat Them
If you have darker skin, melanin-related dark circles are often genetic and can affect both the upper and lower eyelids. These are normal and part of your natural beauty! However, they can also result from external factors such as:
- Chronic eczema or irritation
- Rubbing your eyes excessively
- Inflammation from allergic reactions
How to Treat Melanin-Induced Dark Circles
- Target the cause first: If eczema or irritation is triggering pigmentation, focus on calming the inflammation first.
- Incorporate pigment-fighting ingredients that are gentle enough for use around the eyes:
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Niacinamide: Reduces melanin production and strengthens the skin barrier.
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Milk thistle extract: Decreases tyrosinase activity to slow pigment formation and is anti-inflammatory.
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Retinoids: Promote cell turnover and improve overall skin quality - start low in strength and build up very gradually.
- Bakuchiol: A gentler, plant-based alternative to retinoids that can be used in the daytime (unlike retinoids).
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Niacinamide: Reduces melanin production and strengthens the skin barrier.
Don’t Skip Sunscreen
Pigmentation issues worsen with UV rays from sun exposure, so wearing sunscreen daily is crucial. If chemical sunscreens sting your eyes, opt for a mineral-based formula—it’s gentler and just as effective.
Blood Vessel-Related Dark Circles: Causes and Solutions
Blood vessel-related dark circles often appear blue or purple and are more common as we age due to thinning skin. Why? From our mid-20s onward, we lose about 1% of our collagen annually. During menopause, collagen loss accelerates, and we can lose up to 30% of skin thickness in just five years.
How to Reduce Blood Vessel-Related Dark Circles
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Thicken the skin:
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Retinoids: Boost collagen production to create firmer, thicker skin.
- Niacinamide: A powerhouse ingredient that supports collagen and strengthens the skin barrier.
- Bakuchiol: Ideal for sensitive skin, offering similar benefits to retinoids.
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Retinoids: Boost collagen production to create firmer, thicker skin.
- Strengthen blood vessels:
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- Alpha-glucosyl hesperidin: Improves circulation and reduces capillary fragility.
- Vitamin K: Helps strengthen capillaries and reduce the visibility of blood vessels.
- Alpha-glucosyl hesperidin: Improves circulation and reduces capillary fragility.
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Temporary fixes for tired eyes:
- Caffeine creams: Caffeine constricts blood vessels, temporarily minimising the appearance of dark circles.
- DIY tea compress: A cost-effective way to reduce puffiness and boost circulation.
- Caffeine creams: Caffeine constricts blood vessels, temporarily minimising the appearance of dark circles.
How to Build a Skincare Routine to Minimise Dark Circles
The best skincare routine for dark circles combines targeted treatments with preventive measures. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
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Cleanse gently: Use a hydrating, non-irritating cleanser to protect the delicate skin around your eyes. Avoid actives in your cleanser for this reason.
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Apply targeted treatments:
- Use products with niacinamide, retinoids, or bakuchiol to boost skin thickness and reduce pigmentation.
- For vascular issues, opt for serums with alpha-glucosyl hesperidin or vitamin K.
- Use products with niacinamide, retinoids, or bakuchiol to boost skin thickness and reduce pigmentation.
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Moisturise deeply: Keep the skin hydrated to prevent irritation and maintain a strong barrier. This will also help you tolerate more potent actives, like retinoids.
- Protect with sunscreen: Use a mineral-based sunscreen daily, dose it correctly and be sure to distribute it evenly on the under-eye area.
Can You Permanently Get Rid of Dark Circles?
While skincare can significantly improve the appearance of dark circles, some genetic or deeply ingrained issues may persist. For those cases, consider these strategies:
- Use a high-quality concealer: The right concealer can instantly brighten your under-eye area and boost confidence.
- Maintain realistic expectations: Focus on improvement rather than perfection.
Final Thoughts: Your Dark Circles Cheat Sheet
To minimise dark circles, you need to identify their cause—melanin or blood vessels—and choose the right skincare ingredients accordingly. Here’s a quick recap:
- For melanin issues, look for niacinamide, milk thistle extract, retinoids, and bakuchiol.
- For blood vessel problems, focus on retinoids, niacinamide, vitamin K, and alpha-glucosyl hesperidin.
- Always wear sunscreen to prevent further damage.
- Remember, dark circles are complex and often require a tailored approach.
With the right routine, you can achieve brighter, healthier-looking under-eyes. And on those days when you want extra coverage? A great concealer will always have your back (Nars Radiant Concealer gets my vote!)
Ready to take control of your dark circles? Let me know which tips worked for you!
